Saturday, August 30, 2008

Laduma!

Summer has worn herself out. The party is over, and the kids are back at school.

But what a grand summer we have had this year. My girls overdosed on the luxuries of not having to get up to a hectic schedule every day and had enough time for dreaming, sleeping, reading and playing their music. They also spent their summer perfecting their dolphin kicks and cannon-balls. The weather has been glorious with a typical wind-free balmy and dry season. We ended up going to movies only once and watched almost no Netflix movies and television. We went to Monterey, the Children's Discovery museum, and listened to the San Francisco Symphony play for free in the park. Sarah composed her first violin piece, and Jenna patiently practiced her new Classical guitar moves. Naturally we all still sighed, and some stomped off in a huff when we tried to play ensemble pieces. Hmmmmm -- we have a ways to go, as the Americans say!

I am not a huge sports fan, but the Olympics were intriguing. Mostly, I read about it in the paper. Last Sunday morning when Master Phelps was on the front page, I said to Henk it is surprising to me that such a national sports hero doesn't have a fabulous nickname. If he had been South African, he would not have got off so lightly. Oh, no.

He would have been rechristened something suitable. No formal Namby Pamby Michael Phelps would be heard or written about. So I thought, let's check out Wikipedia for possible nicknames. Blank. Then I googled the question. Well, I found one page that asked for suggestions, but had no responses. Some radio show ran a competition online and got one entry which was declared the winner -- the Phelpinator. Seriously lame, people.
Apparently the Chinese call him "The flying Fish" in Chinese, which is terribly cute and witty if you are, or understand Chinese. Kudos to you guys.
If he had won so many gold medals for South Africa, he would never forget it. His nickname would be chanted at meets, it would be yelled in greeting every time he passed a stranger.
As a multicultural nation, we are fond of nicknames, and of course the African languages, of which we have nine, lend themselves beautifully to fun and quirky names.

South Africa is gearing up to host the finals of the Soccer World Cup in 2010. The soccer world will experience Cup Final Soccer ala African style for the first time ever, they say. It will be the first time in its history that an African nation hosts this big sporting event. If you are there, or watch the game, here are a few pointers.
Our team is called "Bafana Bafana". Go ahead and say it. Fun to say, isn't it?! It means "The Boys The Boys". And my personal favorite: "Laduuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuma!"Literally means goal. But with much more panache, I think.
You will hear the loud elephant trumpeting of the fans. These are plastic horns that bellow like Buffalo and are easy and fun to use, making every grown-up feel like a kid again. Go ahead and buy your own Vuvuzela for the game. Fellow fans will eventually give in and ask to have a go on your "Voove" as they're known locally. Be a sport and lend your voove to the guy. Originally, they were Kudu horns, used to summon African villages to meetings, but before long they were so popular at Soccer games, that one enterprising company mass produced them in cheap plastic and a cultural phenomenon was born.

You will hear names like Sibusiso Zuma aka "Zuma the Puma";Phil Masinga aka "Chippa"; and my personal favorite, Mr John "Shoes" Moshoeu. When he gets the ball and zips along the field the crowd roars "Shoe-oes"; Shoe-oes!". Men and women finally united in a love for shoes. Nirvana. So I am holding out for the day that we get to host the Olympics, and give some African nicknames to the American stars. Think Brangelina is unique? Just wait.
Oh, and I forgot to mention the under 23 national soccer team, the "Amaglug- glug". Sponsored by a large petroleum company, of course. Get it?

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Free Washing Machines

This morning I was listening to a convoluted discussion about America's Health Care System.
Messers McCain and Obama are both making big promises to remove the fear of not having a trained medical professional save your life when you or someone in your family gets horribly sick.
Over here, we are all familiar with the pitfalls and expenses of the health care system. The only truly interesting part of the discussion was not the promises of free services, tax breaks and health care for all, but rather the fact that someone mentioned that although the health care system is significantly worse than 16 years ago, the Democrats and Republicans offered exactly the same solutions then as they do in this run-up to the election. Hmm --- smacks of free washing machines.

When South Africa heralded its democracy in 1994, it was obliged to do so with the industry of good old politicians. Of all descriptions and ethical tendencies.

Occasionally, as a junior member of staff, I was summoned to deal with the awkward delegations who had arrived at the Houses of Parliament for their washing machines.

These were rural people. Usually elderly, wrapped in blankets, the harsh poverty of their lives carved into their faces in jagged lines. They were almost always quiet and dignified, and definitely more than patient. They arrived and waited. They stood quietly to one side and waited and waited. Everyone around them got uncomfortable.
A junior staff member was sent to speak with them.

I learned they had spent all their money to take a bus to the Capitol. They had arrived without money, food or anywhere to stay. They arrived, trusting their leader whom they believed in completely, would care for them, make good on the promises of food, jobs, health care and schooling, and -- give each one of them a free washing machine. Honestly, I have never seen people so set on not leaving without this promised luxury.
At first I had been incredulous and a bit amused. These people live in huts without running water, not to mention electricity. Then, it was just sad that they had been duped.
I knew the politicians they were waiting for. Their childlike expectations humbled me and made me angry that they had been manipulated in this manner on the rural campaign trail.
But it was not my place to do anything about it. I tried my best to get food and accommodation for these people and hoped for the actions of ethical elected leaders.
Sometimes, the government paid to send them home -- but naturally there was never any sign of a washing machine.

This played out a few times that year. It always ended the same, and I guess word eventually spread of the phantom washing machines. They stopped coming.
But I have retained my nose for free washing machines. If it sounds too good, it is. If a politician promises you something that seems impossible, it certainly is.
And if a politician takes advantage of a weaker person, there should be outrage and vocal opposition. The weak in our society must be protected by the ordinary, strong, educated and healthy adults who have the responsibility to dictate to our leaders how our personal world will be governed.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Barbara.

I met Barbara one Saturday sunset at the most desirable place to be in Cape Town at this time of day in summer.

La Med was, and may more than likely still be, a great place to have a cold sundowner with a bit of kick, and a tasty seafood snack. You could depend on live music wafting to the airy tables outdoors, a spectacular view of the sun setting over the ocean, and a high probability of bumping into people you know, like and may even care about.

Barbara, a petite, blond, tanned, and blue-eyed German girl was a friendly cocktail waitress who brought our gin-and-tonics, and lingered to chat. When we revealed ourselves to be a bunch of bar and nightclub workers, she charged us only for the alcohol, not the soft drinks, and removed the cover charge from our bill.
Although new to the job, she had quickly learned we were all part of a unspoken club that granted each other favors and special privileges on the infrequent nights we were not working long, hard hours serving revelers to pay our bills.

We stayed until dark, and reluctantly left when the party was ratcheting up for the raucous evening groove. We had clothes to change, comfortable shoes to pull on and floats to count. I waved goodbye, and told her to come by my place of work after her shift for a drink - I would put her on my staff guest list, and the bouncer would wave her in and usher her to the depths of the VIP lounge, a privilege for which social wannabes vied.

She appeared at midnight, her boyfriend, Mike, accompanying her. He was also blond, blue-eyed, sunburned with a very wide smile, and a heavy German accent. They were charming. They were traveling the country together, and had decided to spend some extra time in Cape Town in the summer.

A few days later, she called me early in the morning and asked whether I wished to explore the city with her. It sounded like fun, and I arranged to pick her up in my battered light yellow VW Jetta, which made up in attitude for what it lacked in youth and vigor.

We drove up cobbled, forgotten back streets of Cape Town City, unfashionable and seemingly ordinary. We walked for miles. Up rickety staircases careening up impossibly steep hillsides, and into garishly painted tiny corner cafes which sold spicy, deep fried snacks I was sure were going to poison us.
We sat on an old church wall, and ate ice-cream while talking about unimportant things, and watching the passing lives scuttle by.

Barbara had an incredible eye for minute detail, pointing out quietly ornate architecture made mute in the noisy city. She noticed absurd behavior in people, parents blindfolded by rushing, children protesting the pace and more aware than their protectors. We pulled faces at toddlers, who returned them more ghoulishly with glee and enthusiasm. We bought dates in a paper bag and spat the stones out under a tree in the empty botanical rose garden. It buzzed with insects, and the heavy scent of a thousand roses in full bloom made talk unnecessary. We had a good day.

Barbara told me stories of her travels. She and Mike hailed from a small, conservative town in Germany. She had yearned for the hodge-podge of cultures, colors and tongues of Africa, and the two of them had packed their rucksacks, pooled their savings and landed up in South Africa. They also arrived armed with legitimate, big-rig eighteen wheeler truck driving licenses. They had transported paper plates and plastic cups from coast to coast, industrial printing paper and printing press ink from North to South. They drove the country's vast landscape in the slow trucker's lane, with the truckers' radio and each other for company. They took breaks at friendly truck stops, and bought snacks and supplies at approved rest areas on the company's expense account. On long trips, they curled up tightly for the night in the big-rig's little sleeping cab, their big truck dark and still under some trees in the pitch black of the empty, long highways far from town. She said she heard the soul of the earth in those nights. And the safe voice of a dispatcher was just one button-click away.

She and Mike remained in Cape Town for the summer, and when the weather cooled, they packed their rucksacks, kissed us all goodbye, and bought air tickets to Kenya with their trucking wages. A small German girl had changed my perception of Cape Town forever -- and of course, of truckers.